Just noticed that when creative cloud is running it has set the system clock timer interval to 1.001 ms instead of the default 15.625 ms. It stays at this 1ms interval until creative cloud is shut down. This is similar to an issue chrome currently has – http://www.forbes.com/sites/ianmorris/2014/07/14/googles-chrome-web-browser-is-killing-you r-laptop-battery/
Not a big deal on a desktop, not cool on a laptop/tablet… in my case windows 8.1 on a surface pro 3.
In this article I showed how to hack the ACLs on the active directory address list objects to effectively create address list segregation without support from Microsoft. In order to install Exchange 2010 SP2 and move to the supported Address Book Policies feature, we have to reset some of these permissions.
Open ADSI Edit and browse to configuration > Services > Microsoft Exchange > Contoso(your organization name) > Address Lists Container
Open “All Global Address Lists”, right click on “default global address list” enter advanced security and hit restore defaults. Then do the same for containers “All Address Lists”, “All Global Address Lists”, “Offline Address Lists”.
Now install exchange 2010 SP2 and then follow this technet article to create your new Address Book Policies.
I finally have all the parts I need to use my new camera effectively… unfortunately the weather is not going to cooperate this weekend for real testing.
This is an FLI Atlas focuser, designed to carry heavy imaging loads without flexing and offering very fine resolution. Over about 8mm of travel it has 105,000 steps, that’s 85nm/step. To give you an idea of how small a movement that is, a human hair is anywhere from 50,000-100,000nm in diameter.
Can you see it move?
Now I need the skies to clear…
Here’s what Precise Parts came up with to replace my saggy FSQ focuser. It’s just a solid tube cut to the same physical dimensions as the stock focuser. My atlas focuser, once it arrives, will attach to the Takahashi CAA.
As long as the CAA holds up, I think this will work very well.
Last week I ordered a new camera from Finger Lakes Instruments, I wasn’t expecting it to arrive for at least 3 weeks, but they must have had one already built on the shelf and ready to go. Not even a full week to get the camera, and that was with ground shipping. This thing is very impressive so far, it’s a massive peice of machined aluminum, you can tell it’s a quality instrument built for many long cold nights under the stars. I’m hoping for some clear nights over the long holiday weekend coming up, I have a lot to learn.
A couple sensor/camer specs:
- Kodak KAF-16803 sensor
- Sensor size is 36.8mmx36.8mm, this is considerably larger than even a Canon 5d mk2
- 9 μm pixels
- Saturation signal 100 K e-
- Quantum Efficiency (550nm) 60%
- Proline Chassis
- Thermoelectric Cooling to -60º C below ambient
- RBI Annihilator technology
- Up to 8 MHz Download Speed
- Built in USB hub and accessory power
Well, in a month or so, they have to build it first. I placed an order with Finger Lakes Instruments this morning for a Proline 16803 CCD camera. FLI Proline cameras are used in professional level observatories and other scientific applications like digital radiography and forensic imaging.
Made another trip up to the dark sky site and installed the pier. Looks like it’s going to be a very solid platform. I still need to fill the steel pipe with sand and re-level the pier with some shims. Final weight should be between 550-600lbs.
The next camera I get for astrophotography is going to be a monochrome CCD camera. Which means I need color filters and a filter wheel in order to create color images. I found a used FLI CFW-4-5 wheel and a used set of FLI LRGB and Ha filters. I wasn’t sure about buying used filters, but they came from a reputable dealer and saved me about $1000, so it’s worth a shot.
I did a very careful cleaning of the filters and blackened the edges with a flat black enamel paint.
Here’s all the filters mounted in the motorized wheel
Now I just need a camera…. Still debating the Microline vs Proline 16803.
I finally got around to drilling this thing and have it ready to bolt together next weekend. It took me a little while to figure out how to drill the holes, at first I was going to use a simple half inch drill, but the holes never would have been straight. Ideally you do this kind of thing with a drill press, but I didn’t have easy access to one, and wouldn’t be able to take one with me out to the pier site to drill the final holes. Luckily I discovered that they make something called an electromagentic drill press. I assume this device is used to drill holes in steel building construction. It’s basically a portable drill press with a powerful electomagnet built into the base.
Mocked up in the garage, ready to bolt to the concrete footer.